"©own 

the 

Mc6t 



tlrip in fIDalne 
1890 




Gopyiight]^^. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSITS 



4 



T)cywn the West Branch 



*^> vw 



eA Canoeing Trip in cMaine 



1399 



'"k'W 



Written by Stokes and 'T^ickering 



'WTk 



*,* , «: ■>,•> 



Press of The Leeds & Biddle Co. 

1 1 9-2 J Market Street 

Philadelphia 

J900 



37916 

Copyfight,n900 _ _ 

TAUG 23 1900 

ft'.<E»i.«i r«vtstON, 
INTRODUCTION. ' JUN^J901_ 

CHAPTER L—The Start. 

CHAPTER II.— Our Three Days Camp 

CHAPTER III— The Gorge. 

CHAPTER IV.— The Horse %ace %apids. 
CHAPTER V.—mt. Kat^hdin. 

CHAPTER VI.—3tearing the End. 
CHAPTER VIL—Home^uard Bound. 



Bown the Mest Branch 



Introduction 

mS our vacation drew near, we began to think about 
taking a trip, and wondered where we would go. 
Our last expedition along the northern shore of 
Georgian Ba}^, having proved so enjoyable, we 
decided this year to do something of the same kind, and 
finally determined to go canoeing in Maine. Upon reaching 
this decision the point to settle was which one of the many 
beautiful trips to take. After some discussion we all agreed 
that the West Branch of the Penobscot River was the best, 
although we afterwards learned it was one of the hardest 
and roughest in the whole state. 

The evening of August 25th, 1899, found Wm. W. 
Doughten, Charles W. Pickering, Jr., J. Bispham Stokes, 
Jas. S. Coale, and Samuel R. Lippincott, Jr., seated around 
a small table in a private room in Kugler's restaurant, on 
Broad Street above Chestnut. The latter two, while mem- 
bers of our last year's party, were unable to go with us this 
year, much to our regret, but had come to take supper with 



us, see us off and bid us " Bon Voyage." After the coffee 
and cigars, we gathered up our fishing rods, rifles, cameras 
and other miscellaneous paraphernalia, and started for Broad 
Street Station, where we boarded the Federal Express for ( 

Boston. Upon securing our berths and disposing of our 
trappings, we stepped out on the platform, to have a last 
hand shake with the boys and say good-by. At 8.10 
the conductor called '*all aboard," the train moved, and we 
were off. 

Soon after taking our seats we were joined by an old 
friend (John S. Bowen) who was on his way to the Adiron- 
dacks. With the addition of his company and many jolly 
stories of former hunting trips, the time passed rapidly, 
and we were in Jersey City before we knew it. Bowen left 
us here, while the rest of us went around the City on the 
steamer "Maryland" the cars having been run on the boat. 
We had a beautiful ride up the East River by moonlight, 
and enjoyed the panoramic view of New York by night. 
As we approached Harlem River we were surprised to find 
it long past eleven o'clock. Expecting to reach Boston by 
seven the following morning, and having a long day before 
us, we thought it about time to turn in ; we were soon 
asleep and knew nothing more until we waked up in Boston. 

The train was on time so we had an hour to cross the 
city to the Boston & Maine Depot where we breakfasted 
and boarded the 8 A. M. train for Greenville, Maine. We (^ 

were in great luck to learn they ran a parlor car all the way 
through without our having to change cars, so we settled 



ourselves for an all day's ride, and a very pleasant and 
beautiful one it was, as part of the country through which 
we passed was magnificent. Stopped at Portland, Maine, 
for dinner, and arrived at Greenville, the lower end of 
Moosehead Lake, on time at 5.10 P. M., where we took a 
little steamer for a twenty mile run up the lake, one hour 
and forty minutes, to Mt. Kineo. 

Upon our arrival, the first and most prominent figure in 
the assem-bled group was the manly form of Wm. C. Biddle, 
the fourth member of our party, who had gone on a day in 
advance to engage guides, and purchase supplies. Needless 
to say we were overjoyed to see him, and learn that he had 
gotten everything ready for an early start the next day. 
A hearty supper after cur long day's travel was appreciated 
by all. Turned in soon, as we had to get up early and have 
our traveling clothes shipped by express to Norcross, to 
await our coming out at that point two weeks later. 




A) 



CHAPTER L 

The Start. 

/^te^UNDAY morning, August 27th, — 6.30 A. M. found 
^-^^ us up and stirring, the morning was bright and 
^^^ clear, and the lake as still as a mill-pond. Oue 
outfit being larger than we had counted on, wr 
were obliged to engage another guide and canoe, making 
five guides and five canoes. This afterwards proved 
very fortunate, as it lightened the loads of the other canoes, 
enabling us to shoot many '' quick places " or rapids, we 
could not otherwise have done, on account of the water 
being very low. As it was Sunday and the boats 
made no regular trips, we were compelled to charter a 
steamer to take us up the lake to North East Carry. On 
arriving there at 10.45 found one of the guides had left 
Pickering's rod and landing net behind, at Kineo, twenty 
miles away. After some discussion and a few " French" 
w^ords from him, it was decided for the party to go on, cross 
the carry to the West Branch, and find a camping ground 
for the night, while Pick went back to Kineo to look for 
his rod. 

The guides loaded the canoes and supplies on a wagon 
and started across the two and a half mile carry, the rest of 



the party following on foot. Reaching the river we em- 
barked and started down to look for a good camping 
ground, which we found about five and a half miles below, 
and went into camp at 4 P. M. On the way we saw two 
muskrats and one deer. While the guides were clearing 
ground and pitching the tents we walked back through the 
woods about a mile, saw lots of moose and deer tracks but 
no game. 

In the meantime Pickering had gone back to Kineo, 
found his rod on the porch where the guides had left it, and 
after getting something to eat, made a second start, landing 
at North East Carry again at 4.15 P. M., where he found 
his guide "Caulder" waiting for him. On their way across 
the carry they saw several large jack rabbits, at which they 
fired with a revolver to see them jump and run ; they 
reached the "putting in place" at 5 P. M., and joined the 
rest of the party at 6.35. Going down stream they saw 
five deer. 

The call to supper found us ready with whetted appetites, 
and we all did ample justice to the beefsteak, corn, peas, 
potatoes and corn bread, winding up with canned pears. 
After supper we sat around a huge camp fire, which the 
guides had built, smoking our pipes and telling stories, 
until 9 P. M., when we turned in. The night proved very 
damp, which, together with the sonorous tones from friend 
Biddle, awakened us several times and we thought at first 
that some gigantic fog-horn had gotten lost in the woods 
and was making the night hideous. 



8 

Up at 5.45 the next morning to find a dense fog hanging 
over everything. Had breakfast at 6.30, of which flap- 
jacks with maple syrup formed the principal part ; then 
broke camp and started on our second day at half-past 
seven. About nine o'clock the fog lifted and the sun came 
out hot. During the morning we shot three rapids, saw six 
deer and a cow moose. Stopped for dinner at noon, about 
one and a half miles from Chesuncook Lake. 

Early in the afternoon we passed the mouth of Little Pine 
Creek, and shot Pine Creek Falls. On the way Pickering 
killed a black duck, which proved upon inspection to have 
been shot before, and was therefore useless for food. We 
stopped at "Chesuncook House," a ramshackle building at 
the head of the Lake, to get our supply of potatoes, having 
brought only enough with us to see us this far. Doughten's 
money seemed to worry him, and as he knew he would 
have no chance to spend it after leaving Chesuncook, and 
before reaching Norcross, he purchased a paddle, although 
we had no less than twelve in the party. 

On the way down the lake Biddle and Pickering tried 
trolling, but were unable to tempt the speckled beauties 
from the deep. About five miles further passed a large 
forest fire, and went into camp a mile below it on the west 
shore at quarter of five. While the guides were pitching 
the tents and getting supper, we had a fine swim, and then 
amused ourselves shooting at loons. During the shooting 
we noticed a clear double echo ; the first, ten seconds, and 
the second twenty-one seconds, from the report of the rifle. 



The view from this camp was particularly fine, Mt.Katahdin 
looming up directly opposite, about twenty miles away. After 
a hearty supper Doughten and Pickering each caught a large 
eel, one weighing three and a quarter and the other three 
and a half pounds ; which Henry, our Indian boy guide, 
killed by "hetten em on the head we a r-r-r-r-ock." After 
this Dr. Stokes' (we called him doctor because he was 
custodian of the medicine chest) chocolate box was in 
evidence, then a few songs and to bed ; but as the night 
w^as warm, Stokes and Pick wrote up their diaries, and kept 
the rest of us awake until after nine o'clock (very late). 

August 29th. During the night the roaring of the forest 
fire could be plainly heard and it made us a little uneasy, 
except Doughten, who could have slept right through it, 
and wakened only in the morning of the second day, to 
find himself burned to a crisp, but as we did not want to 
lose him so soon, had to look after him as well as the rest 
of the baggage. We were up at five thirty to find the fire 
had worked its way about half a mile nearer than when we 
turned in, so hurried through breakfast, broke camp, and 
by seven thirty were under way, before it got too hot and 
smoky. After several hours delightful paddling, we saw 
three deer feeding on the west shore of the lake, but quite 
a long distance off. In a few moments Stokes, who was 
slightly in advance, sang out **deer ahead," and sure 
enough, there, right in the middle of the lake was a young 
buck swimming. Then began a race of five canoes and 
nine excited men after one deer. A lemon was offered to 



lO 



the one reaching it first, so the water fairly boiled under the 
bows of the canoes as they bounded forward in response to 
the long swift strokes of the paddles. As soon as the deer 
saw us, he raised his head and looked intently at us for a [f 

moment, undecided whether to go on or turn back, but as 
he was about half way, and one course was as near as the 
other, he decided to go on, and struck out for shore. In a 
very few moments we had overtaken and surrounded him ; 
the poor animal did not know what to do, or which way to 
turn, and was puffing and blowing hard. He tried several 
times to jump into our canoes, but as we did not relish the 
idea of a bath, objected, and pushed him off with the 
paddles. 

During the excitement that ensued, each man patted him, 
or had hold of his horns, which were still in the " velvet." 

Once, after an unsuccessful attempt to shake hands wdth 
Pick, and being thrown back into the water, he came up 
directly under Stokes' canoe, very nearly upsetting it. 

The camera was now brought forth and the canoes lined 
up so as to take the best picture, with the deer in the fore- 
ground, and it was really pitiful to hear Pick's wailing plea, 
*'0 ! take me," "O ! take me," "Take me alongside the 
deer," " Now did you get me?" "Are you sure?" etc., 
etc. He afterwards explained his actions by saying "he 
w^as thinking of home and Mother," and " wished Mother 
could see him then." The deer by this time was so nearly , 

exhausted we had to slacken speed to avoid drowning him. 
One of the party ( Stokes j went ahead with the camera to 



II 

snap him as he left the water, while the others drove him 
just where they wanted him to go. He was so w^eak after 
leaving the water that he could scarcely jump over a fallen 
tree trunk in his path, but soon disappeared in the woods 
to a well earned rest. Stokes got a good cloud effect with 
the camera, but no deer. 





CHAPTER IL 

Our Three Days* Camp 

K reached the lower end of Chesuncook Lake, 

which is about twenty-three miles long, at 

eleven o'clock, where we found we would 

have to wait for Joe Labree, the man on the 

carry, to take us around Ripagenous Gorge, he having just 

started with another party, shortly before we arrived. 

After pitching the tents, we walked across the three quar- 
ter mile carry to Ripagenous Lake, the guides carrying the 
canoes, and we our guns and rods. Here we again took to 
the canoes, and paddled to the lower end of the lake, where 
our party separated, Doughten and Stokes going a mile 
inland to Carry Pond, for fish ; but though they indus- 
triously whipped the water for two hours were unable to get 
a rise. At one end of this pond was the coldest spring of 
water we had ever tasted. Biddle and Pickering climbed 
down over huge boulders through the Gorge to a quiet 
pool, where they succeeded in landing four fine trout, and 
started back to camp, arriving there about six o'clock, when 
they had a good swim. 

The others did not return until 7.30, when they found a 
good supper awaiting them, to which the fresh trout made 
a welcome addition. 

The thermometer stood at 90° during the afternoon and 
as we had left our rubber bags containing our clothes and 



13 

blankets lying out in the sun, found upon investigation that 
the candles had mysteriously disappeared, nothing but the 
wicks remaining : we afterwards found the main body of 
them had been absorbed by our bedding. Before turning 
in, a deer came out about ten yards from our tent, stamped 
and snorted for a few minutes, and then off again. While 
we were writing in our diaries Biddle had again started 
snoring "bass opera airs," and as we could neither think, 
sleep nor write, were compelled to punch him in the ribs 
several times to make him sleep more peacefully. 

August 30th. Up at 5.30 o'clock. Morning damp and 
foggy. Breakfasted at half past six and shortly after, 
Pick, who had gone down to the shore, came running back 
to the tent to get his gun, and announced a large flock of 
ducks feeding in the cove not a hundred yards from camp. 
Biddle grabbed his rifle, and loading as they ran, they soon 
disappeared around the bend. In a few minutes our ears were 
greeted by a bombardment that reminded us of Manila Bay: 
here Biddle' s marksmanship showed forth in glowing colors, 
as out of a flock of about fifty ducks, he succeeded in shoot- 
ing all around them, scaring them a great deal, but with- 
out touching a feather. Pick managed to kill one, which 
turned out to be a miserable little " shell-drake," and not 
good to eat, so we did not have duck for dinner. 

Shortly after this we went over to Ripogenous Lake, 
where we had left the canoes the night before. Again the 
party separated, Biddle and Pickering going for a second 
trip down the Gorge, while Doughten and Stokes started 



^4 

for Frost Pond. We all took our guides with us leaving 
one in camp to look after things, and see that no more can- 
dles melted. Only one of the guides was familiar with the 
route to Frost Pond and as it had been several years since 
he had been there, they were slightly at a loss to know 
which trail to follow. Entering the woods at the mouth of 
a small stream and following it for about two miles they 
turned off to the left ; an hours tramp bringing them no 
nearer the pond, decided to send the guides in different 
directions to look for it while they rested. vSoon Davenport, 
one of the guides, set up a shout, "Here it is!" "I've 
found it ! " " Here's the Pond." They called in the other 
guide, and set off in the direction of the voice. Upon 
reaching Davenport they found themselves not on Frost 
Pond : — but back on the shore of Ripogenous Lake, about 
a mile from where they had left their canoes, having made 
a circle in the woods and come out nearly where they had 
started. After this we always spoke of it as "Lost" Pond. 
They sent the guides for the canoes, and giving it up, re- 
turned to camp about noon, all pretty tired, and as Biddle 
and Pickering had not gotten back, had dinner without 
them. 

When the rest returned late in the afternoon, we learned 
that the "big hunter" (Biddle), who was fish crazy, had 
lost all count of time and kept pushing on and on down the 
Gorge, endeavoring to tempt the wary trout from the deep 
pools among the rocks. In the meantime Pick, who had 
gotten tired of fishing near the dam without success, spent 



15 

his time in clambering over the rocks taking photographs of 
the Gorge. The long absence of "the mighty Biddle' ' caused 
Pick to fear that he had gotten lost, so sent his guide down 
stream to look him up, and while waiting for them to 
return he sat on a rock in the middle of the stream with 
his shoes and stockings off, feet in the water, wrote up his 
diary and made a sketch of the dam. 

Biddle and guides turned up before long O. K., bringing 
with them a nice mess of speckled trout, and then they 
returned to camp. That night for supper we had Biddle' s 
trout, also a pheasant he had shot with his rifle on the way 
home. 

After supper we w^ent down to the shore, and nearly 
stepped on a little fawn that was playing like a tame 
kitten ; we stood and watched it for some time until it 
hopped over a log and disappeared in the woods. In the 
evening we had a visit from Mr. Chas. Starr and Mr. 
George Lippincott, both from Philadelphia, who were tak- 
ing the same trip as ourselves, and were just ahead of us, 
also waiting to get across the carry. 

Some time in the night we were awakened by one of the 
guides calling us to come out and look at a forest fire, 
which proved to be an aurora borealis or northern light, 
and a most beautiful sight it was, with pale wavering rib- 
bons of light ; green, pink and yellow. But it was cold 
work and even this magnificent spectacle could not keep us 
long out of bed. 

Up the next morning at 5.15, breakfasted at six, and by 



i6 

six-thirty were ready to move camp. At seven o'clock 
Labree came with his horses and hauled us over to Ripo- 
genous Lake. We camped again about half way down on 
the west shore where we had dinner at 11.30, and in the 
afternoon Pick and Stokes went to Frost Pond, this time 
finding it without difficulty. But fishing is slow work when 
the fish wont bite, so they took a swim, after which Pick 
took a six mile tramp through the woods with his guide, 
securing two pheasants. After he left, Stokes caught 
quite a number of nice trout and both came out on the 
shore of Ripogenous Lake again about the same time, 
startling two big blue herron and a flock of shell-drakes, 
to which Stokes gave chase in his canoe, firing at them as 
he went : Pick drifting slowly back to camp, w^hich was 
nearly opposite. Stokes, after following the ducks for some 
distance, and not getting any, decided to go to the head of 
the lake to see if he could get a deer, as the game laws now 
allowed us to kill them for food. Suddenly the guide called 
out, "There's one," and looking closely he could see the 
antlers of a large buck, feeding in the tall grass at the far 
end of the lake. 

Every effort was now made to approach as near as pos- 
sible without scaring him ; fortunately the wind was in 
the right direction, from the deer towards them. Every 
time it raised its head the guide stopped paddling and as 
soon as it lowered it, they again advanced ; by this method 
they got to within about one hundred yards of it. Now 
was Stokes' chance ; taking careful aim just behind the 



17 

fore leg he fired : the deer jumped as if hit, and then stood 
looking at them while Stokes industriously pumped shot 
after shot at it without apparent effect. We understand he 
got his nerve on the eleventh shot and again scored a "hit." 
Stokes is usually a fair shot, so we think he must have been 
shooting at a stump, although he assured us on his return 
to camp they had followed the deer and found blood marks 
in the woods : but they failed to produce evidence to satisfy 
us. When they returned to camp about seven o'clock they 
found that Biddle and Doughten had each killed a deer. 

Doughten described his chase thus : — "Davenport and I 
went to the lower end of Chesuncook Lake, as he seemed to 
think we would find deer feeding in the tall grass there : 
after waiting some time one came but as it was three hun- 
dred yards away I thought it too far to shoot, so waited a 
little longer hoping it would come nearer ; but as it did not 
I determined to try a shot. I raised my rear sight four 
notches, took careful aim and fired. Much to my surprise 
it fell over but got up again at once and started for the 
woods. I fired again and then gave the rifle to Davenport 
who jumped out of the canoe, splashed through the mud 
and following its trail at last succeeded in killing it. ' ' 

Biddle, not to be outdone by Doughten, said: — ' 'After pad- 
dling to the upper end of Ripogenous Lake and waiting 
three long hours a small doe came out on the opposite 
^.ox^ 2X \^2i^\. four hundred arid fifty 3^ards from where we 
were sitting, and with only an open sight on my rifle I drove 
a bullet through its heart the first shot, killing it stone 



i8 

dead." Thereby gaining the name of ''mighty hunter." 
One of the peculiarities we noticed about these Maine 
guides was, they might occasionally lie to each other, but 
never go back on their * ' sport ; " let him tell a story of 
how he did a thing, be it true or not, and they will always 
back him up. 

At any rate we had plenty of fresh meat, and with venison 
steak, broiled pheasant, fried trout, stewed corn, baked 
potatoes, cocoa, hot biscuit and dried peaches we had a 
supper fit for a king. 

We were up at five the next morning after the longest and 
most uncomfortable night we had had yet ; the early part 
was very warm, but during the night the wind changed and 
before morning it blew up cold. Broke camp and started 
at 6.30, Stokes and guide going up the lake to see if they 
could find the deer wounded the night before, but saw no 
trace of it, which was a great pity for it must have been 
the ' ' largest head and antlers' ' killed or seen in the whole 
etate of Maine during the last decade, according to Stokes' 
discription. The other guides took our baggage in the 
canoes while Biddle, Doughten and Pick walked through 
the woods to the lower end of the lake where the three and 
a half mile carry begins. 

Soon Joe Labree arrived with his team, and by 9.45 were 
at last started on the carry which had delayed us so long. 
He could only take two canoes and their baggage to a load, 
so had to make two trips, leaving one canoe for the guides 
to carry. 



CHAPTER IIL 

The Gorge. 

^MT HAVING two of the guides to help load the sled 
■B aud look after our things, we took the other two, 
/^^^ and clambered down through the Gorge, over 
rocks and along narrow ledges, where one single 
misstep meant certain death. The scenery through the 
Gorge is stupendous, and beggars description. In some 
places the rocks tower in one solid perpendicular wall over 
one hundred and fifty feet in height, and in others the water 
dashes madly between overhanging walls scarcely twenty 
feet apart. No canoe made could live a minute in this 
seething torrent, and would certainly be dashed to pieces 
against the jagged rocks, were anyone foolish enough to 
try it. Stokes joined the rest of the party at what is known 
as the "Big Heater," owing to the formation of a huge 
rock, which stands in the middle of the Gorge like a 
sentinel, and bids defiance to the elements. 

From this point you get a magnificent view both up and 
down the Gorge, so after resting and enjoying the scenery 
for about half an hour, w^e turned in through the woods to 
the carry road, where we joined the guides and sled. Had 
dinner at this point, and while eating, our inquisitive 
friend (Doughten) asked, why they did not have a wagon 



instead of a sled, which was a cumbersome contrivance built 
of heavy logs about twelve feet long, with runners tied 
together by cross pieces four or five feet long. The guides 
told him to see the road and he would know why, and he 
did. It was without exception the roughest road we had 
ever seen, and we have seen some pretty bad ones ; up hill 
and down, over logs, fallen trees and rocks one and two 
feet high, and so rough we could hardly walk. How those 
horses managed to walk, let alone pull the sled, was a 
marvel, as they were liable to break their legs at every 
step. After seeing the road we did not think the price 
charged ($21.00) was so exorbitant, as I^abree had to go 
over this road four times to get our party across. 

As all things come to an end sooner or later, we at last 
reached the putting in place at 4 P.M. Spent the rest of the 
afternoon fishing, catching several ' * ouananiche ' ' or land- 
locked salmon, also vSome fine trout, the largest weighing a 
little under two pounds. We had some trouble, but at the 
same time sport with chubs, which were unusually plentiful, 
one of our party having had four good sized chubs on his 
line at once. Biddle, rod in hand, had wandered off up 
stream as usual, and as it was getting dark and had started 
to rain, lyciney, his guide, showed signs of uneasiness and 
went out several times to call him. We were struck by his 
devotion in not eating anything until Biddle returned, 
although we and the other guides had finished supper long 
before he put in an appearance. 

This was the first rainy night we had had, so lighted our 



21 

acetylene lamp and congregated in the tent to smoke our 
pipes before turning in. We were all more or less interested 
in fishing, and had asked several times where the best 
places were, which brought forth the following story from 
Davenport : * ' There was one of them there city sports up 
here last summer what didn't believe in spendin' any money 
on guides, and thought he knowed it all, but I fooled him. 
Ye see he was dead stuck on fishin' and wanted to know all 
the good places from us fellers without payin' any of us a 
cent. Well, one day he says to me, says lie, ' where is the 
best place to fish around here ? ' And I says to him, says 
I, ' If you'll follow me, I'll show you the best place to fish 
I know of.' 'I'm your man,' says he, 'lead on.' Sol 
took him down on the West Branch under that big tree 
that hangs out over the river just below the North East 
Carry, set him down in the shade, and left him. About six 
o'clock he come a wanderin' back to the hotel, hot, tired, 

dusty and mad, and he says, 'You d n fool, there ain't no 

fish there at all, I didn't get a single bite all day.' * Well,' 
says I, ' I never knowed none to be ketched there, but you 
wanted to know the best place to fish, and on the bank in 
the shade of that there tree is the best place I know of. ' 
Well sir, if he wasn't mad, — my, my." 

Ed. Eeiney then told a story : " One time he was out 
in the woods with a man from Boston, moose hunting, and 
having followed a trail too far to get back to camp that 
night, they had to lay down and go to sleep with nothing 
over them but the stars, ayid there were none.'" With these 



22 

and many other stories, the evening slipped by, until 8.30 
found us all ready for sleep. This was the only day, so far, 
we had not been in our canoes, or seen a deer. 

September 2nd. Up at five o'clock, morning cold and 
cloudy, and it looked like rain or snow. Biddle was the 
only one that felt up to par, Doughten and Stokes both 
having a slight headache, and Pick a sore throat. Break- 
fasted at 6.30, Davenport doing the cooking, as Kd. had 
"struck," because someone had kicked about his biscuit 
and praivSed Davenport's. He said "If his cooking was not 
good enough, someone else could do it," and someone else 
had to. Fried trout, venison, salmon, pheasants (killed 
with a r-r-h-ock by Henry), corn-bread, fried potatoes, and 
flap- jacks with maple syrup, washed down with a cup of 
hot cocoa, made us all feel better. By 7.30 were ready to 
start, but had to wait until nine o'clock for Ed. who found 
at the last moment that his satchel had dropped off the sled 
somewhere on the carry road, and he went back to look for 
it. Presently we heard a voice, coming from the woods, 
gradually growing louder as it approached, which sounded 
more like a lost spirit from the infernal region than a human 
being. It was Ed. returning with his satchel, and swearing 
a red, white and blue streak at his luck ; the language was 
more forcible than elegant and will not bear repetition here. 
We had all heard some tall swearing before, but decided 
afterwards that this exhibition would take first prize any- 
where. He had had to walk back over the carry road about 
two miles, before he found it. 



CHAPTER IV, 
The Horse Race Rapids* 

^^W ^^ AD a beautiful ride down stream of about two 
Ij^ miles, shooting several small rapids on the 
Ib%x way. Upon reaching the next carry Doughten 
sprang out, rifle in hand, almost before his canoe 
had touched shore, and strode off through the woods with 
his long " HUNTKR " stride, as it was his custom never to 
carry anything but his long fowling piece. We followed 
suit, and in about half an hour the guides had brought all 
our things over and we were ready to set off again. From 
now on everything went smoothl}^ until we reached the last 
pitch of the " Horse Race Rapids." This is the longest, 
strongest and most dangerous rapid on the river, being filled 
with large boulders with ragged edges, around which the 
water boils and swirls, requiring all the skill and watchful- 
ness of the canoeist to avoid being swamped. 

Doughten and Davenport took the lead, Henry with the 
baggage went second, Stokes and Joe third, Pickering and 
Caulder next, with Biddle and Ed. bringing up the rear. 
The three first mentioned ran down in safety to the dead 
water below, and there waited for the others. Pickering 
and Caulder kept close in to the shore using the pole, as 
Caulder was a little timid of ' ' running it on the paddle ; ' ' 



24 

about half way down Biddle and Ed. passed them, out in 
mid stream, "running on the paddle" and going about 
twenty-five miles an hour. Caulder seeing them go down 
with such flying colors, tried to get into the current, but 
had left it too late, for the instant he threw the bow around 
they were caught by the rushing water, and carried down 
broadside. Both paddled furiously, but were unable to 
straighten the canoe, and were rushed along at a terrific 
pace towards some jagged rocks. In a moment a wave had 
lifted them upon a sunken rock, one instant the}^ hung 
there, the next were hurled down stream again, only to be 
dashed broadside against a huge boulder. 

No canoe made could have withstood the strain, so their 
frail craft was smashed to pieces, literally cut right in half, 
the canvas which covered the bottom being the only thing 
that held the two ends togetlier. Of course both were 
thrown into the water but were not hurt, and in a moment 
scrambled up on a rock, resembling in appearance two 
drownded rats. They managed to keep the gun, shells and 
most of the heavy things from sinking, but the camera, 
flour box, and the rest of the baggage went bobbing 
merrily down stream, where they were picked up bj^ the 
rest of the party. The camera was our greatest loss, being 
so badly water-soaked that it was useless for the remainder 
of the trip. As usual in sucli accidents the most valuable 
things are always lost, so in this case, all our films exposed 
and unexposed (except the pocket kodak) were also damaged 
and we counted them a total loss. For some time we did 



25 

not know how to get Pick and guide off the rock, as it was 
too far for them to jump, the water too deep to walk, and 
swimming simply out of the question in such a torrent. 
Finally Davenport unloaded his canoe and with almost 
superhuman efforts, managed to pole up stream against the 
current and rescued the shipwrecked. 

Before leaving the rock Caulder tied a rope to the re- 
mainder of the canoe, and threw the end of it on shore, and 
to show how firmly the rush of water held the canoe 
against the rock, seven of us pulling on the rope could not 
budge it, so we left it as a monument of warning to all 
other canoeists, to give the ' ' Caulder Rock ' ' a wide berth. 

We camped at the foot of Horse Race Rapids at noon, 
where Pick had a " drying out party" and asked us all to 
come. We built three large fires and hung all his clothes, 
and blankets, etc., etc., up to dry, while he went around in 
borrowed garments, and it was only by dint of hard work 
and hard squeezing, that we were able to get his blankets 
dry enough for him to sleep in that night. Turned in at 
7.45 but did not sleep much, owing to the smoke from the 
fires. 

September 3rd. Were awakened by Ed. singing Dough- 
ten's favorite song, " I^o, Lo, lyO, Lo," to the air of "He 
lycadeth Me," which we heard every morning as soon as 
Dough ten opened his eyes. He hasn't much of a voice, but 
the rendition of this selection was ''simply grand '' and we 
had it morning, noon and night. This being Sunday, 
Stokes and Pickering thought they ought to observe the 



. 26 

day in some way to make it different from the other days, 
so they both brushed their hair for the first time since leav- 
ing Kineo. Breakfasted at 7 A. M., and were in the canoes 
by eight, and in about two hours reached Nesowaduchunk 
Falls. On our way we passed the camp of Mr. Horace 
Lippincott, from Philadelphia, who had come up from Nor- 
cross (our objective point), with his wife and daughter. 

While the guides were making the portage, Pick dis- 
covered that he had lost his memo, book — he had just 
learned that Mr. Lippincott had his daughter with him — so 
nothing would do but he must take a guide and go back to 
see if he had left it at the last camp, and Doughten went 
along, as ballast. When they returned, we asked Pick if 
he had met the ladies. " O, yes indeed, had a splendid 
time, stopped at Mr. Lippincott's camp and had a very 
pleasant call." " Did 5'ou find your book ? " *' No, not 
there, do you know it is the funniest thing, that book was 
in my pocket all the time." We all know Pick, so only 
laugh and go on having our little jokes on each other. 

W^hile Pick and Doughten had gone back, the rest of the 
party went into camp just below the falls, where the Neso- 
waduchunk Creek runs into the river, leaving one of the 
guides to wait for the others at the falls. After lunch 
Biddle and Stokes took rod and rifle and followed up the 
Nesowaduchunk Stream to see if they could not improve 
our larder, Biddle looking for deer, and Stokes after trout. 
They only succeeded in landing six small fish weighing 
about half to three quarters of a pound each. 



27 

Doughten and Pick in the meantime had gone down 
stream to see if the^^ could get a deer, but did not see any 
until late in the afternoon on their wa}^ back to camp, and 
then had to take a very hard shot at a doe on the jump, 
about two hundred and fifty yards away. They both fired 
but missed, w^hich was not to be wondered at, as they shot 
from a moving canoe. This was a very expensive after- 
noon's sport for Dough ten, as he lost a seven year old pipe. 
He told us afterwards he would not have taken ten dollars 
for it, but we doubt if anyone would have offered ten 
cents. 

While the guides were getting supper, we tried to repair 
the camera, but with little success, as it was so badly 
warped. It had been very cloudy all day, with little spits 
of rain every now and then, and the clouds w^ere so low it 
seemed as if we could almost touch them. We wound up 
the day by smoking our pipes and singing a few hymns, 
Doughten's " Lo, lyO," being one of the favorites. 

September 4th. At 4.30 A. M. Stokes awakened the 
entire camp by noiselessly (?) going out with his guide, Joe, 
to try and secure a deer, as we were out of fresh meat. 
They returned about six o'clock, having paddled up stream 
against a strong current and a head wind, hungry enough to 
eat a whole deer, but without bringing anj^ game with them. 
Stokes is always hungry, but this morning w^e thought he 
never w^ould get enough. At breakfast Biddle said he 
would show the rest of us how to get a deer, so the 
" Mighty Hunter " took his trusty rifle and strode off with 



28 

his guide, promising to join us at noon, at the mouth of 
Katahdin Brook, where we intended making our next 
camp. Getting our things together and taking Biddle's 
canoe, we dropped down stream about two miles to our 
camping ground, which was in full view of Mt. Katahdin, 
the highest peak in Maine, and about three miles from the 
foot of the slide. 

We left the guides to clear ground and pitch the tents, while 
we paddled across the river to call on Messrs. Starr and Lip- 
pincott, who had come down stream and gone into camp di- 
rectly opposite, and who intended joining our party the 
following morning to make the ascent of Mt. Katahdin. 
Biddle joined us at 1.30 P. M., and did bring a small por- 
tion of a small deer with him, which he said was all that was 
fit to eat as the rest had been shot away. We concluded 
from this that someone must have caught and held a little 
fawn for him, while he shot it, and we looked at Ed. but 
could tell nothing from his mobile countenance, so were 
forced to accept Biddle's story. 

In the afternoon Stokes and Pickering, with guides, 
paddled up stream about two miles and tramped through 
the woods to lyily Pond, which is a famous feeding ground, 
where they both hoped to secure a deer. While lying in 
the high grass on a point which runs out into the lagoon, 
quite a number of black ducks settled on the water just in 
front of them, and within easy gun shot, but they did not 
fire for fear of scaring the deer. About six o'clock a doe 
came into the water at the very furthest end of the pond, 



29 

and began feeding on the lily pads, about three hundred 
yards away. They waited for some time hoping she would 
come nearer, or that another one would come out. By this 
time it was beginning to get dark and as they could not see 
the sights on their rifles much longer, they decided to try a 
shot. 

Handing the shot gun to one of the guides with instruc- 
tions to shoot the ducks when they rose at the report of the 
rifles, they took careful aim, and counting one, two, three, 
both fired simultaneously. The deer jumped as if hit, but 
disappeared in the woods, and the guides both declared it 
was hit, but a careful examination of the ground and 
bushes in that neighborhood failed to show any signs of 
blood, so they concluded the deer was still happy. The 
ducks fared equally well, as the guide handled the gun 
as though he had never seen one before : — he never touched 
a feather, and the only wonder was, that he did not kill one 
of the party in his excitement. 

On their way back to camp their ears were greeted by a 
sound like a gatling-gun running at full speed, which 
proved to be Doughten, chasing a little " Hell Diver " up 
stream, thinking it was a duck, and firing so rapidly it was 
a wonder his rifle did not become over-heated. 




CHAPTER V. 

cMt. Katahdin. 

EPTKMBKR 5th. Up at 4.30 A. M., after a restless 
night, being awake several times with the cold; 
the thermometer registered 38° at five o'clock, the 
coldest yet, and we all envied Dough ten his sleeping 
bag, which he said " kept him as snug as a bug in a rug." 
Had breakfast, and after some discussion as to which of the 
guides were to go with us, started on our fifteen mile tramp 
and climb at 6.15, leaving Leiney and Pickering, who had 
decided not to go, on account of his knee, in camp. 

The first few miles led through the woods over what 
seemed to be a deer path, very much blocked with fallen 
trees and old stumps. At the foot of the mountain we 
came to a large landslide, up which the trail leads. This 
was strewn with loose stones of all sizes, and in some 
places was quite dangerous from the fact that a rock started 
on one of the gravel patches was likely to go crashing 
down on the heads of the party following, carrying with it 
tons of loose stones and earth. 

Within five hundred feet of the top of the mountain is a 
large plateau which we reached about half past ten, after 
two hours of the hardest climbing. The last few hundred 



31 

feet being so steep we had to pull ourselves up over the 
large rocks with our hands. Once safely up, on this table- 
land, many hundred feet above the line of vegetation, we 
found nothing but barren rocks all around us. We had 
been told there was a spring of clear cold water up there, 
and strange as it may seem, forty-five hundred feet above 
sea level, we found it after a short search. Here we had 
lunch and built a fire behind some large rocks, as the wind 
was blowing a gale, and it was very cold at such an alti- 
tude. 

Doughten declared he had had enough climbing, so leav- 
ing him with two of the guides by the fire, Biddle and 
Stokes took the other two, and pushed on to the top of the 
ridge. Half way up, Henry said it was too cold for him, 
and turned back. At the top of the ridge Biddle and guide 
declared they had had enough, and as Stokes was deter- 
mined to walk along the ridge to the highest peak, about a 
mile away, he had to go alone, while they waited for him 
in the shelter of the rocks. 

This ridge is so narrow, in some places not more than two 
feet wide, that a single misstep would send you down an 
almost perpendicular cliff for a thousand feet or more. The 
view from the highest peak is magnificent, and you could 
see over a hundred different bodies of water from its top. 
Standing about half way between the two highest points 
in this ridge, you can look down into a huge amphitheatre, 
formed b}^ the rocks, the sides of which, in many places 
were perfectly smooth for two or three hundred feet, as if 



32 

they had been polished, and were of a deep purple. They 
rise nearly perpendicularly on three sides from a small lake 
that nestles among the trees at their foot. 

By this time the clouds which had been very high all 
morning began to thicken and shut down on us> so Stokes 
and Biddle joined Doughten, who had had a good nap, despite 
the cold, and all started to make the descent. It took us 
two hours or more to climb up, but only one to come down, 
and in making the descent we used large sticks or alpine- 
stocks, and leaning back on them were able in some of the 
gravelly places to slide for a distance of ten feet or more at 
a time. On our way down we were overtaken b)^ a shower 
which made us quicken our pace. We reached camp wet 
and hungry about 4 P. M., having made the trip of be- 
tween fourteen and fifteen miles in a little over nine hours. Wi 

During our absence, Pickering and guide had gone back 
in the woods about five miles to look for deer, and try his 
luck fishing in a small pond. On their way they started 
two moose, which they heard crashing through the under- 
brush, and followed their trail for some distance. They did 
not see any deer, but caught several fine trout, averaging 
about one pound each, and returned to camp at one o'clock, 
where they enjoyed a dinner of part of their morning's 
catch. 

Shortly after dinner it began to rain, so Pick donned 
his high rubber boots and oil skin shooting jacket, for the 
first time on this trip, and was just starting off after ducks 
when the others returned. Biddle and Henry wanted to go 



33 

with him, so the three set out, while the rest of us sat 
around and rested. They went over to Lily Pond and 
waited some time in cover, where they saw several flocks 

* of ducks flying over, but were unable to get a shot at them. 
It was raining hard all this time, and as Biddle and Henry 
were both very tired after their hard day's climb, they soon 
returned to camp for an early supper. 

Were just about ready to turn in, when Starr and Lippin- 
cott came over to call. We took a flash light photograph 
of the group, with the tent and some clothes hanging up to 
dry, as a background. It seemed quite late before they 
left, but found it was only half past eight when they bade 
us good night, and paddled away in the darkness. We 
were soon lulled to sleep by the patter of the rain on the 

* tent, and all slept w^ell that night despite the cold and 
Biddle's snoring. 

Were up at 6.15 the following morning to find it 
bright and clear once more, and much warmer than the 
previous day, with a strong wind blowing from the west. 
Broke camp at nine o'clock and reached Abol Falls by 
quarter of ten, made the portage and were soon at the 
second carry, with only a half mile of paddling between. 
Started once more on our course at a quarter past eleven, 
and came down the river with flying colors, having a strong 
wind at our backs which was of great assistance, as we 
J rigged up our coats on the paddles, using them as sails 

and fairly flew along, it only being necessary to steer the 
canoes. 



34 

We stopped on "dead water" at 12.25 for lunch, and 
while the guides were building a fire, all started off in 
different directions, to see if we could add anything to our 
larder. Biddle and Stokes walked back to a small lagoon, 
which they circled, but failed to see any game. Doughten 
stayed quietly by the fire, superintending the cooking and 
looking after the lemons, w^hich were getting low, while 
Pick went off alone to a small pond in another direction, 
to get some ducks which he felt sure were there. Not 
finding any, he was making a circuit of the camp, intending 
to come in from the other side, when he was startled by a 
deer jumping from some cover about sixty yards away. 

He said : " I at once dropped on my knee to take aim, 
but as it ran between the trees, could not get a shot, and 
was just about to go on again, when I saw a large doe 
standing behind a tree, sixty-five yards distant, with only 
her hind quarters exposed to view. She had evidently not 
seen me. Quick as a flash I threw my gun to my shoulder 
and fired . As soon as the smoke lifted I walked forward to 
find I had hit her, and broken her back. The animal was 
not dead, and struggled furiously to rise when she saw me, 
and struck at me several times with her front feet. Wishing 
to put her out of her misery as soon as possible, I stabbed 
her with my long hunting knife, and then put a bullet 
through her heart with my revolver." 

He then came rushing back to camp to get one of the 
guides to help bring her in. From what we could learn 
from his description of the affair, he must have hit her with 



35 

a load of buck-shot, at at least two hundred yards away, 
through three large pine trees directly in line. Then 
rushed forward, drawn his knife, and hurled himself upon 
her as she tried to rise in her death struggles. The poor 
boy was so excited at killing his first deer, he did not know 
whether he killed her with a shot gun or a " pea-shooter." 

At all events, here was the fresh meat w^e had been 
looking for, and, fifteen minutes after the report of the 
gun, we had the heart and liver in the frying-pan, cooking 
for dinner. We all ate some, but found it a little too fresh, 
to be good. 

Off again at 1.45, and after going a mile and a half, 
came to another fall, which we had to carry around, making 
our third portage that day. We tried to reach Joe Francis' 
camp, which is on Debskneek dead water, about two miles 
below, to see if he would sell us some flour. We had a 
good deal of trouble in doing so as the wind had increased, 
and by this time was blowing a gale, about forty miles an 
hour. At last we reached his place, only to be told that 
Joe was away from home, and the man in charge said, 
"They had none to spare." 

Leaving there, we again put out into a broad sheet of 
water, where we felt the full force of the wind, which piled 
the waves up so high that the canoes were shipping water 
at every stroke of the paddles, and we were all pretty wet. 
It was very exciting work, and more than once we thought 
we would be swamped, but as there was no escaping it, we 
did the best we could. We were finally compelled to 



36 

abandon our attempt to reach the lower end of dead water, 
and were forced to run before the wind, for a sandy beach 
(literally blown ashore), where we all landed safely, none 
the worse for our wetting. As we could get no further that 
day, had to camp there for the night, although it was not a 
good camping ground. 

Before supper we had a call from a Mr. Brown and a 
Mr. Crawley, who were staying at Joe's camp. They said 
they would try to get us some flour by telling Joe we were 
old college chums, and went away promising to use their 
best endeavors, although we had never seen them before. 
For supper that night we had some of Pick's venison, 
which was awfully tough, although he insisted it was 
delicious, but finally had to admit it was not fit to eat. 

While at table Pick sprang a good joke on Doughten, 
who for the last two or three days, had produced a lemon 
at each meal, saying it was the last, and making for himself a 
cup of hot lemonade. This time it was Pick's turn to bring 
forth a lemon, for during the afternoon he had discovered 
the lemon box with five lemons in it, and had quietly taken 
four good ones, hiding them in his pillow, and leaving one 
rotten one for manners, and Doughten. 

In the evening Biddle and Pickering went over to see 
Joe Francis, who proved to be an Indian about sixty-five 
years of age, and at one time chief of his tribe. They had 
a very cold rough walk of about a mile, against a strong 
wind which blew out their acetylene lamp twice ; but suc- 
ceeded in getting a promise from Joe to sell us twenty 



37 

pounds of flour in the morning, thanks to Messrs. Brown 
and Crawley. 

Upon their return to camp, about nine o'clock, they gave 
Doughten and Stokes the following glowing account of the 
cabin ; they said, " It was constructed of large logs fitted 
close together, with one big room which formed the dining 
and main living room; the principal feature of which, 
was a large open fire-place built of stone, with room on 
either side of the fire for several persons to sit. Old- 
fashioned andirons supported the large logs around which 
the flames licked, casting their reflections on the walls, and 
lending a coziness to the whole place that they were loath 
to leave. On the walls and shelves where the heads of 
moose, caribou, deer, eagles and pheasants mounted in 
excellent style, while the floor was strewn with the skins of 
bears and deer, and a beautiful rug made from a white 
fox skin mounted with the head on, lay just in front of the 
fire. On the wall to the right of the fire-place a pair of 
Indian snow-shoes and a small canoe made of birch bark, 
with paddles, made an effective panel. On the left was a 
rack made of moose feet containing an assortment of old 
and new rifles and fishing rods. Among this collection was 
an old flint-lock musket which Joe said had been used by 
his grandfather sixty-five years ago." 

This was all " made up out of the whole cloth," for in 
reality, it was nothing but a large room with bare walls, no 
fire place or ornaments of any kind, a stove (with the pipe 
stuck through a piece of tin in the window), three chairs, 



38 

and a board desk in one corner, was all it contained. They 
certainly scored one on Dough ten, as he got up at an un- 
earthly hour the following morning to go with the guide on 
purpose to see this " magnificent " camp. 




« 




CHAPTER VL 

Nearing the End. 

EPTEMBER 7th. Morning bright and clear. The 
wind, which had been blowing with unabated fury- 
all night, stopped very suddenly about half past 
five, just as if someone had turned it off. About 
eight o'clock, each man taking his guide, we all set out in 
different directions in quest of a set of horns, as we were 
now drawing near the end of our trip, and were anxious 
each to secure a head to bring home. 

At dinner time we found, upon comparing notes, that 
altogether we had seen fifteen deer that morning, but as all 
but two were does, and we had plenty of fresh meat in the 
larder, did not shoot any. 

Biddle told us, that after he and his guide had tramped 
about three miles inland they came to a large swamp ; 
circling which, and going a short distance they came suddenly 
to within thirty yards of a doe and fawn lying down. The 
wind being from her towards them she had not discovered 
their presence. As soon as they saw her they stood 
perfectly still, and a very pretty example of deer curiosity 
was then exhibited. Not being able to decide what they 
were, she got up and walked slowly towards them, the little 



40 

fawn running by her side, making a ver}^ pretty picture. 
She came within ten feet of where they stood and then 
stopped to take a good look. After looking at her for a few 
minutes, Biddle threw up his arm, and away she went, 
with the fawn close upon her heels, and in a moment they 
were lost to sight in the brush. 

Shortly after this as they were walking quietly along 
Henry grabbed Biddle's arm and excitedly exclaimed, 
"Look ! lyook ! " and at the same time pointing at a large 
bush about eighty yards away ; he looked carefully and 
soon saw the head and antlers of a large buck just over the 
top of the bush. He said Henry told him that if he shot 
it in the head he would spoil it for mounting, so he tried to 
guess where its heart would be, and fired. All we know is, 
that he did not bring home a head, and so we concluded 
that the "big hunter" must have been nearer than four 
hundred and fifty yards to h\s Jirst deer. 

During the afternoon we saw three more deer, making 
eighteen in all, the largest number seen in any one day on 
the trip. 

We sat around the fire after supper listening to the 
guides' stories until 8.45, when we turned in. 

Broke camp the next morning at 8.30, and had a beauti- 
ful ride down the river over long stretches of * * dead 
water," with now and then a short rapid which enlivened 
the run. The trees on either side of the stream had already 
begun to take on their autumnal tints and it seemed quite 
fall like to see the bright red and yellow leaves nestled in 



41 

among the different shades of green of the pines and hem- 
locks. 

We carried over Debskneek and Ambajejus carries, and 
stopped for lunch a few miles below the latter at the Amba- 
jejus House, which will accommodate one hundred persons 
(one at a time). It was an old log hut used by the lumber- 
men during the * * spring drive, ' ' and was very dilapidated 
and overgrown with weeds and vines. While sitting around 
after lunch, Henry's sharp eyes discovered an apple tree, 
and shouting, "There's an apple tree," made a break for it, 
but Ed. was there before him. One shake of the tree and 
the apple was on the ground with both men tumbling over 
and over each other in their efforts to get it. Stokes 
thought he had seen several fall, and while the guides were 
scrambling for one, he quietly picked up three, which he 
divided with the rest of us. It seemed strange to find an 
apple tree growing in such a wilderness, but we were very 
glad we had found it, as the apples were delicious. 

Before going any further Doughten insisted upon having 
his photograph taken, lying in his sleeping bag, and just as 
the shutter snapped he murmured, " I do wish mother 
could see me at this moment." 

At 1.30 we resumed our battle with the elements. The 
wind having stiffened into a regular gale, and with the 
waves running about two feet high we had some difficulty 
in keeping our frail crafts from being swamped. Stopped 
once, after about two hours hard paddling, to look for a 
good camping ground and Ed. went back into the woods to 



42 

see if he could find a suitable place. In climbing over some 
rocks on his way back to the boats, he fell, hurting his 
knee and dulling the edge of his axe, then we heard 
another of his " sermons," in good earnest. As he ap- 
proached us he was making the air blue by swearing, and 
all at once without a word of warning he swung his axe 
around his head and let it go. It seemed to us as if he 
had tried to throw it all the way across the lake but it fell 
about fifteen yards from shore and with a big splash sank 
out of sight. 

We found a good ground and went into camp about a mile 
further down on the opposite shore of Pemadumcook Lake. 
As soon as Biddle reached shore and felt terra-firma under 
his feet again, he was so overjoyed that he burst forth into 
his one and only song, and caroled it to the sky : 

" Can she make a cherry pie? Billy boy, Billy boy, 
Can she make a cherry pie ? charming Billy. 
She can make a cherry pie that'll beat you in the eye, 
For she's a young thing and cannot leave her mother," 

While the guides were pitching the tents and getting 
supper, we did some rifle and revolver shooting, and in the 
midst of our sport we noticed a black duck winging its 
way about fifty yards from shore, against the strong wind, 
and considering how hard the wind was blowing, it was 
certainly making remarkable headway. Doughten turned 
and fired as soon as he saw it, followed almost immediately 
by Biddle, but the duck kept on and by this time it was at 



43 

least seventy yards from us ; Stokes then fired, and much 
to our surprise as well as his, down it came, tumbling over 
and over. 

Doughten, and Henry who had been watching him, at 
once manned a canoe and put out to get it, but here another 
surprise awaited us, for no sooner had his " duckship " 
struck the water than he bobbed up serenely and started 
swimming ; the boys gave chase but as soon as it saw them 
it dived, and owing to the wind and big seas was seen no 
more. 

Davenport, who had been watching us, here burst out 
laughing, and said, " None of us could shoot a little bit ; " 
but Pick protested, saying, " He had not fired at the duck, 
and dared him to throw up his hat." He did so, and then 
Pick had the laugh on him, for it came down more like a 
sieve than anything else. It was the only hat Davenport 
had to wear back to Kineo, and as he was a great dude, we 
all said it served him jolly right. 

That evening we sat out on a rocky shore watching the 
shooting stars, and waiting for two of the guides, whom we 
had sent down to Norcross to get our letters. They re- 
turned about half past eight, bringing with them quite a 
large budget of mail, which we spent the rest of the eve- 
ning reading. We were all very glad to hear from our 
dear ones at home, and it made us feel as if our trip was 
nearly at an end, to be again within the reach of a post 
ofiice. 

This was our last night in camp and we wanted to make 



44 

the most of it, so sat up until quarter past ten, very late. 

September 9th. Morning bright and clear, with a strong 
wind blowing from the north. We spent the early part of 
the day in cleaning guns, rifles and revolvers, and 
packing up our things. Gave what clothes we had no 
further use for to the guides who seemed as much pleased 
to get them as we were to get rid of them. 

Just before dinner, decided to take one more swim before 
getting back to civilization ; the water was the nearest 
thing to liquid ice we had ever been in and the keen wind 
cut us like a knife, but with Doughten's encouragement, 
who stoutly maintained with chattering teeth, that it was 
"all imagination," about the water being cold, we managed 
to get a plunge. After a good rub down and a run along 
the beach, felt much refreshed and did full justice to an 
early dinner of stewed deer meat, hot biscuit, flap jacks and 
the last of the maple syrup, and a steaming cup of coffee. 

By this time all our things had been packed, tents rolled 
up, cooking utensils cleaned, and everything in the canoes. 
We bid good-by to the woods and pushed off at 12.45 ^^r 
Norcross where we arrived an hour later, after paddling 
through North and South Twin Lakes. 

On our way. Pick entertained us with his favorite song, 
" Old Mother Hubbard," etc., accompanying himself by 
banging on the sides of the canoe with his fists. 



3 




CHAPTER VIL 

Homeward Bound. 

►OUND our city clothes waiting for us, and using the 
freight house as a dressing room, with the aid of 
a tin basin and a piece of broken looking-glass, 
were once more in citizens garb and prepared to 
enter civilization. 

It took us some time to get used to high collars and stiff 
straw hats, after two weeks of flannel shirts and old 
slouches, and they made our tanned and bearded faces stand 
out in marked contrast. As we had all we could well 
manage with our guns, rifles, fishing rods and the remains 
of the camera, we secured a large wooden box in which 
Doughten packed our blankets, etc., etc., to be shipped 
home by freight. 

Having deposited a sufficient sum with the Mt. Kineo 
House to pay our guides, thus avoiding taking the money 
with us through the woods, Biddle now settled with them 
by giving each an order on the house for the amount due 
him. 

Pickering and Stokes took a last few photographs and 
purchased some Indian moccasins while waiting for the 
train. At 4.41 it rolled into the station and we boarded it 
for our long ride home. 



46 

Then began one of the most interesting rides we had 
ever taken, as Henry, our boy guide, never having been on 
a railway train before in his life, got very much excited as 
the speed increased, and we told him he would have to S 

*' snub her " if it got to going too fast. At one place the 
whistle blew a shrill blast and the brakes being put on 
suddenly, the train came to a full stop. We told him the 
train must have run over a man and we were stopping to 
pick up the pieces, and as a man came running up the 
track at that moment from a small flag station we had 
nearly run by, we assured him this was the man but that 
he had fallen off the engine instead of being run over. 

All this, with the occasional firing of revolvers from the 
rear platform when he was not looking, we had the boy so 
rattled that he must have been glad when he reached Milo • 

Junction, where the guides left us, taking another train 
back to Greenville and from there returned to Kineo. 

We stopped forty minutes at Bangor, where we had 
supper, and reached Boston at 6 A. M. Sunday morning, 
after a very comfortable night in the sleeper. Took the 
10.30 train from the new Union Station, which was opened 
that day for the first time, and reached New York City at 
four o'clock that afternoon. 

Here we said good-by to Biddle — the rest of us going on 
to Philadelphia where we arrived safe and sound at 7.23 
Sunday evening, September loth, after two of the most g 

delightful weeks we had ever spent. 



^ 



47 

Camping List t899 

Kineo, Me., Aug. 26th, '99. 



5 Loaves of Bread, J .75 

5 %\hs. Cheese, 79 

2 ^bu. Potatoes, 2.50 

7 lbs. Pork, 63 

5 Strips of Bacon, 3.04 

I Small Ham, 1.60 

23 lbs. Butter, 6.84 

% lb. Pepper, 10 

20 lbs. Salt, 25 

I qt. Vinegar, 10 

30 lbs. Sugar, 2.00 

12 Packages of Hecker's Flour, 4.47 

2) 30 lbs. Corn Meal, , i.oo 

1 Package of Quaker Oats, 13 

6 doz. Onions, 30 

15 doz. Eggs, 4.15 

13 lbs. Lard, 1.30 

% doz. Candles, 10 

2 qts. Kerosene Oil (can) , 33 

5 bars Soap, 37 



74 gross Matches, 20 

2% lbs. Tea, 1.40 

8 lbs. Coffee, 2.80 

5 lbs. Evaporated Peaches, 75 

5 lbs. Prunes, 60 

2 lbs. Rice, 20 

J 3 doz. Cans of Condensed Milk, 6.00 

I doz. Cans of Evaporated Cream, 2.16 

1% Cans of Baking Powder, 45 



AUG 231900 

48 

3 Cans of Baked Beans, 50 

6 qts. Maple Syrup 2.35 

2 Cans of Preserved Peaches, 1.20 

4 Cans of Preserved Pears, i.oo 

2 Cans of Preserved Pineapples, 50 

I doz. Cans of Tomatoes, 1.75 

I doz. Cans of Corn, 1.33 

I doz. Cans of Peas, 1.75 

5 Cans of Corned Beef, 1.25 

5 lbs. Beefsteak, 2.00 

5 lbs. Lamb Chops, 1.25 

I doz. Boxes Large Sardines, ) 

I doz. Boxes 5?;2«// Sardines, j 3-9 

1 Box Lunch Tongue, 35 

2 Bottles of Pickles, 40 

3 Bottles of Olives, 1.05 

2 Bottles of Chow Chow, 1.38 

2 lbs. Cocoa, 60 

2 Jars of Currant Jelly, 45 

2 Jars of Raspberry Jelly, 35 

4 Jars of Strawberry Jelly, i . 10 

6 doz. Lemons, 2.00 

y% bu. Potatoes, 12 

$71.89 
For four men and five guides, making nine in the party, 

fourteen days in the woods. 

Left Kineo, Sunday morning, August 27th, and came out 

at Norcross, Saturday afternoon, September 9th, 1899. 

Guides 
Ed. Leiney (Capt.), JoE Launder, Lonzo Davenport, 
John G. Caulder, Henry Pease. 



